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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

Changing your kitchen faucet may seem simple enough until it comes to connecting the faucet to the water supply. The design of the kitchen faucet dictates the length of the line, and since not all supply lines are the same length and they won’t stretch, you must purchase new lines to connect to the kitchen faucet and then to the supply valves. The hardest part of the task is finding the right supply line to fit your valves.
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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

Photo 3: Cut the water supply lines, if you’re replacing the valves Shut off the water below the sink if you have valves, or shut off the main water supply valve if your old faucet is plumbed directly without valves. Open the kitchen faucet and another lower faucet to bleed off any pressure and to drain the water. If you’re installing or replacing valves, cut the water lines directly below the fittings with a tube cutter or hacksaw.
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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

Photo 6: Tighten the faucet mounting nut. Check the operation of the faucet and handle to confirm you’re not putting it in backward, and thread the feeder lines through the flange and sink holes. Then slip on the faucet washer, and thread on and tighten the faucet-mounting nut from below, gently spreading the faucet supply tubes if necessary to gain tool clearance (sometimes manufacturers provide a special tool for this).
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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

The first step in removing the old faucet is to disconnect the water supply lines (Photo 3). If there are no shutoff valves and the water pipes are hooked up directly to the faucet supply lines, or if you’re replacing defective valves, turn off the main water supply valve to the house and cut off the pipes (Photo 3) below the connections with a hacksaw or tube cutter.
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Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines

Photo 8: Attach the spray hose to the faucet supply tube. Thread the spray nozzle line through the faucet body, then thread the spray hose fitting onto the faucet supply tube and tighten it. Pull the nozzle out of the faucet to make sure the hose under the sink operates freely, then attach the counterweight following the manufacturer’s instructions.
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Check the operation of the faucet and handle to confirm you’re not putting it in backward, and thread the feeder lines through the flange and sink holes. Then slip on the faucet washer, and thread on and tighten the faucet-mounting nut from below, gently spreading the faucet supply tubes if necessary to gain tool clearance (sometimes manufacturers provide a special tool for this).
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Photo 10: Connect the supply tube to the supply lines. Clean the copper tubing with fine sandpaper, then slip the nut, compression ring and valve body over the pipe and tighten. Close the valve, turn on the main water valve and check for leaks. Place a bucket under the faucet and turn the faucet on to check for leaks. Reassemble the garbage disposer, P-traps and drain lines.
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Shut off the water below the sink if you have valves, or shut off the main water supply valve if your old faucet is plumbed directly without valves. Open the kitchen faucet and another lower faucet to bleed off any pressure and to drain the water. If you’re installing or replacing valves, cut the water lines directly below the fittings with a tube cutter or hacksaw.
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The toughest part of replacing a kitchen faucet is removing the old one. Unexpected problems always pop up—corroded pipes, difficult-to-reach nuts and poor access to fittings. Otherwise, installing a new kitchen faucet isn’t tough at all. Actually, the directions that come with your new faucet are probably all you’ll need to do that part of the job. Barring unforeseen problems, you could be washing up under the faucet in an hour or so. In this article walk you through a basic replacement process and tell you how to get through those tough parts.
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If you need to remove drain lines to access the faucet, get a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers (Photo 1). For cutting copper tubes, buy a conventional tubing cutter. But if your copper supply lines are within a few inches of the back of the cabinet, buy a special mini tube cutter (Photo 3). You’ll also need a set of open-end wrenches for disconnecting and hooking up the water lines.
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Thread the spray nozzle line through the faucet body, then thread the spray hose fitting onto the faucet supply tube and tighten it. Pull the nozzle out of the faucet to make sure the hose under the sink operates freely, then attach the counterweight following the manufacturer’s instructions.
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Clean the copper tubing with fine sandpaper, then slip the nut, compression ring and valve body over the pipe and tighten. Close the valve, turn on the main water valve and check for leaks. Place a bucket under the faucet and turn the faucet on to check for leaks. Reassemble the garbage disposer, P-traps and drain lines.
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Reach up behind the sink, fit the basin wrench jaws onto the tailpiece nuts and turn counterclockwise to loosen. Then disconnect the spray nozzle hose, remove the faucet and clean the sink area under the old faucet flange.
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Sometimes, in spite of all your best efforts, it’s simply impossible to loosen the old faucet nuts. Calm down! Try soaking the threads with penetrating oil and try again. If that doesn’t do it, it’s time to pull out all the stops and pull the sink so you can get at the nuts. It’s not that tough to do. Loosen the screws on the bottom of the sink rim for a clamp-down sink, or cut the caulk between a drop-in sink and countertop with a utility knife and lift out the sink. Then you’ll be able to go after those nuts with a locking pliers or a pipe wrench to free the old faucet.
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Photo 4: Loosen the tailpiece nuts with a basin wrench Reach up behind the sink, fit the basin wrench jaws onto the tailpiece nuts and turn counterclockwise to loosen. Then disconnect the spray nozzle hose, remove the faucet and clean the sink area under the old faucet flange.
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After you pull out all of the cleansers, buckets and old vases from under the sink, go ahead and lie under there and see if you can easily access the faucet. If so, go right to Photo 3. If not, it’s time to start dismantling the things blocking your path.
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Sometimes a garbage disposer can be a 20-lb. roadblock. Don’t be discouraged—it’s easier than you think to remove it and then reinstall it after the faucet is in (Photo 2). Unplug it and pull it out of the cabinet to get it out of the way. If it’s hard-wired, shut off the circuit breaker that controls the disposer, disconnect the disposer from the sink and set it aside inside the cabinet with the electrical cable still attached.
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When you’re looking for high quality, stainless steel water flexes, you’ve come to the right place. Our braided stainless steel flexes come in every length and are available for faucets, ice makers, dishwashers, water closets, and washing machines, as well as specialty flexes that are great for clawfoot tubs. The right flex can easily solve many supply connection issues, and make short work of your installation.
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Constructed with a durable braided outer sheathing with tough nylon reinforced vinyl tubing inside Available in various lengths & sizes for multiple configurations Perfect for filter faucets and systems, commercial ice maker systems, dishwashers, and other applications Looking for a straight or angled water supply valve? Click here View an example of a compression end NSF 61 certified UPC certified 180° F. maximum temperature rating 125 psi maximum pressure rating Note: O.D. = threads that fit male compression fittings Looking to extend the length of your flex? We offer compression fittings
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Most likely, the main obstacles will be the pipes and P-traps that drain the sinks. Don’t be afraid to pull them out, but more important, don’t be afraid to replace them with new ones. If you have older, chrome-plated drain lines, the pipe walls may be so corroded that they’ll crush in the jaws of a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers. After you remove them, throw all the parts in a box for matching them exactly at the store later. If you have plastic drain parts, be careful during removal—you’ll probably be able to reuse them.

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