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Bathroom Tile Board

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Bathroom Tile Board

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Bathroom Tile Board

Tile needs to be installed on a backer board to keep the assembly stiff, otherwise the assembly will flex at the grout joints, allowing water to seep behind the tile and rot the substructure. Here’s how to choose the best tile backer board for your project. By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine Cement board Fiber cement board Glass mat gypsum board Water-resistant drywall
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Bathroom Tile Board

DensShield® Tile Backer Engineered to prevent damage to the sub-floor or wall cavity if moisture seeps through grouted tile, DensShield® Tile Backer is the first backer board with a built-in moisture barrier. It is the ideal ceramic tile underlayment for new construction, bathroom remodeling, pool areas, and many other high humidity or wet areas. Easier to handle than cement board, DensShield® Tile Backer cuts and installs like drywall without special tools or fasteners. View product diagram. Where to Buy LEED Calculator More Tools & Resources Close
bathroom tile board 2

Bathroom Tile Board

DensShield® Tile Backer Engineered to prevent damage to the sub-floor or wall cavity if moisture seeps through grouted tile, DensShield® Tile Backer is the first backer board with a built-in moisture barrier. It is the ideal ceramic tile underlayment for new construction, bathroom remodeling, pool areas, and many other high humidity or wet areas. Easier to handle than cement board, DensShield® Tile Backer cuts and installs like drywall without special tools or fasteners. View product diagram.
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Bathroom Tile Board

In this article, we’ll show you how to create a strong, durable and waterproof tile base around your bathtub using cement board. We chose the tub surround because it’s highly leak-prone, and an ideal spot for cement backer board. Although cement board is heavy and a bit awkward to cut, even a novice should be able to complete a professional-quality tub surround, ready to tile, in a day. (Allow half a day to tear out the old tile and perhaps several more days to let damp wood dry out.)
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Bathroom Tile Board

Unless you have bought an older house that needs remodeling, you may have never seen tileboard.  Like the giant panda, tileboard is rapidly becoming an endangered species.Should you remodel your kitchen or bathroom with tileboard? If you have a tileboard room, is it worth keeping the material–or just ripping it out?What Is It?Tileboard is not real ceramic or porcelain tile.  It is medium density fiberboard (MDF) pressed board with a hard melamine layer on top. The melamine top is grooved to give the appearance of tile's grout lines. One popular tileboard is Georgia Pacific's Lionite® Tileboard.Who Should Use It?  Where?Tileboard is used by landlords and builders as a cheap way to give the appearance of tile, without incurring high costs associated with actual tile work.  Homeowners rarely use tileboard in master bathrooms or kitchens, preferring to use it less visible places, like downstairs baths, powder rooms, kitchenettes, etc.How Water Resistant?Because of the melamine top, tileboard is largely water-resistant, but correct installation is critical.Only the front resists water; the back does not. Also, tileboard's sides can readily suck up water and ruin it. So you have to make sure that your tileboard's edges are covered.Tileboard belongs more in the decorative wall panel family than in anything even approaching tile. Decorative wall paneling is the industry's newest term for that type of thin wood paneling found in basements and mancaves. Decorative, Not StructuralTileboard is a very thin material–ranging from 1/8″ to 3/16″. As a result, it has nearly zero structural value.If you are installing tileboard over loose or cracking plaster, it can hold in some–but not much–of the plaster.Tileboard can be a good way to cover up minor drywall imperfections. In any case, this product must be installed over a flat, finish surface; it should never be installed over studs or furring strips. Doing so will result in ugly lines showing through the thin material over time.Installing TileboardThe best thing about tileboard is ease of installation. Essentially, it glues down over a flat surface and the edges are sealed with silicone caulk or edging materials:Condition the tileboard in the room where you intend to install them for 48 hours.Ensure that you have solid, nearly flat gypsum drywall walls. Due to moisture-wicking, you cannot install tileboard straight onto any kind of masonry wall–cinderblock, brick, etc. For masonry, first install furring strips, then drywall, then the tileboard.Note the tileboard spacing. To avoid buckling of tileboard panels, leave 3/16″ gap between panels and 1/16″ between panel edge and any outer edge (wall, floor, molding).Adhere the tileboard to the walls with adhesive, not nails.Cover seams and edges with silicone caulk.How Green Is It?Not very. Tileboard, being MDF, may contain many chemicals, including phenol, phenol resorcinol, melamine formaldehyde-based, or polyvinyl acetate.
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Cement board Cement board is the most durable, trouble-free tile backer for tub surrounds, showers, floors and all other wet areas. Its made from cement and sand, and is reinforced by fiberglass mats on both sides, so it’s impervious to water. It’s typically available in 1/2-in. thick, 3 x 5-ft. sheets. Other sizes are available, including 1/4-in. or 5/16-in. thick. For installation instructions, see cement board ceramic tile
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Tile needs to be installed on a backer board to keep the assembly stiff, otherwise the assembly will flex at the grout joints, allowing water to seep behind the tile and rot the substructure. Here’s how to choose the best tile backer board for your project.
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An alternative to tiles, tile boards come in larger, 8-foot-by-4-foot panels that you can install more easily and quickly. They resemble tiles in appearance, and the ones made for the bathroom resist moisture well. Tile boards usually cost less than real tiles. The higher the quality, the more tile boards resemble real tiles. However, they generally look less and less real with age. Some tile boards only suit dry interior surfaces, so check with your supplier before purchasing your tile boards.
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Fiber cement board Fiber cement board is a variation of cement board that’s made from compressed cement and sand, reinforced with wood fibers throughout. Its installation procedures and durability are similar to those for cement board, but be sure to read its product specification sheet for specific limitations. It’s only available in 1/4-in. thick sizes.
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The traditional method of installing ceramic tile called for setting it in a solid mortar bed. Troweling a perfectly flat bed required great skill, but the reward was a tile job that lasted for decades. Today, most professional tile setters back their tile with cement board instead, because it offers almost the same durability with a lot less work. And the best part? Do-it-yourselfers can use it too.
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To attach the cement board to the studs, you’ll need special 1-1/4 in. cement board screws (see Fig. B). These screws have a coating to resist corrosion, a special wide head with cutting flutes and hi-low threads for a strong grip. If you can’t find them at a home center, call tile specialty stores. If special screws aren’t available, attach the cement board with 1-1/2 in. hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails.
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Cement board is the most durable, trouble-free tile backer for tub surrounds, showers, floors and all other wet areas. Its made from cement and sand, and is reinforced by fiberglass mats on both sides, so it’s impervious to water. It’s typically available in 1/2-in. thick, 3 x 5-ft. sheets. Other sizes are available, including 1/4-in. or 5/16-in. thick. For installation instructions, see cement board ceramic tile
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Glass mat gypsum board Glass mat gypsum board works well in damp areas, including tub surrounds, but not in areas that may be continuously wet or damp. The sheets are made from water-resistant silicone-treated gypsum, reinforced on both sides by fiberglass mats. The tile side is sealed with a waterproof coating. It’s typically available in 1/2-in. thick, 4 x 5-ft. sheets, but tile dealers carry other sizes, including 1/4-in. thick sheets.
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Hanging cement board is one job where gaps are desirable. Space the bottom sheets 1/4 in. above the tub lip to allow for movement of the tub and floor. Use nails or screws as temporary spacers to create a 1/8-in. gap between sheets of cement board. When you squeeze the thin-set mortar into this gap, it will lock the two sheets together and strengthen the seam. Finally, leave extra clearance around each piece by deducting about 1/4 in. from your measurements before you mark the cement board for cutting. Believe me, you want to avoid the knuckle-skinning task of trimming a little off. Any gaps will be covered with mesh tape and thin-set.
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Fiber cement board is a variation of cement board that’s made from compressed cement and sand, reinforced with wood fibers throughout. Its installation procedures and durability are similar to those for cement board, but be sure to read its product specification sheet for specific limitations. It’s only available in 1/4-in. thick sizes.
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Cement board, technically called cementitious backer unit (CBU), is manufactured under different brand names. The standard size sheet is 3 x 5 ft. and 1/2 in. thick, weighs 45 to 60 lbs. and is available at most full-service lumberyards and building supply centers. The 1/2-in. thick cement board spans studs spaced 16 in. on center. Other sizes, like 3 x 4 ft., 3 x 6 ft. and 4 x 4 ft., are available, but you may have to contact a tile supplier to find them. Our project, tiling the walls around a standard 5-ft. tub to a height of 6 ft., requires four 3 x 5-ft. sheets.

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